Saturday, February 5, 2011
From time to time, even I get a little burned out with surfing. Sure, it doesn't last long but a very cold or unproductive session can zap my motivation away. Especially demotivating is a nasty wipe out or two. I've had a couple of those lately that linger in the back of my mind when I'm out in the lineup. I'll be waiting for a set and if something looks remotely like one of the waves that I didn't do so well on then my heart will race a bit. I've been working on shaking that feeling but it is sometimes difficult, especially if there's a strong current or consistent overhead plus waves.
I recently stumbled upon a couple of stories that have served as a great point of inspiration. The first is that of Sarah Gerhardt, a big wave rider. Just seeing pictures of her surf Maverick's gives me goosebumps. Sarah was the first woman to ride a wave standing up at the famous big wave spot. In addition to being an elite athlete she's also a PhD in physical chemistry. Go Sarah!
The second source of inspiration is a post on Surfline's Surf Tips With Layne that talks about fear. It's quite good and examines some of the feelings I've had recently, although not in gigantic Hawaiian swell. Still, while fear is good to have a little bit it is not good to let it paralyze you.
As long as I surf 4-6 times a week I'm going to fall off waves, wipe out, and possibly get held under. It's all part of the game. However, I'll also get some great rides, stay close to my beloved ocean, and keep fit in a very fun way. I must say - the good definitely outweigh the bad.