Sunday, February 6, 2011

Still Got It On a Shorty!

I've been thinking about taking the short board out again. It's been sitting in the garage since the beginning of the summer. Lately, the size of the waves and steep drops that happen at my usual spots have me thinking I was going to snap my 8' if I kept riding it.

So today was the day. I brought out the 6'8" (okay, not THAT short but short for me). Hubby was taking his time getting ready this morning and it was getting closer to high tide. I was worried that the waves would be too mushy if I didn't get out there.

I got out in the lineup and my shoulders were burning! To top it off, my left contact came out somewhere on the way (that really stinks). I gained my composure and sat there for a bit. It was pretty crowded and the mush was in full effect.

I was trying to stay out of the way of all the hot shots that were carving it up. I just wanted to catch a nice little corner and get my bearings. There were a lot of rollers coming though but the combo swell was making it pretty choppy at times. Finally, I saw my chance and went for it. I got right up and had a pretty decent ride. It felt great, I could still get up on my shorty.

It took me a while to get another but when I did it was a very nice right that I dropped in on and made a nice cutback. Overall, the session was quite nice.

I feel good about my shorty and will take her out the rest of the week. My poor shoulders are still feeling it and it honestly strains me to type right now. However, I'm incredibly stoked that I am continuing to improve.


Lindsay said...

Hey good job! Boy, just being able to stand up on any kind of board sounds like a challenge to me!! I am impressed with anyone who can surf at all!

Apryl DeLancey said...

Thanks! As much as I go it would be ridiculous if I didn't at least stand up!