So I thought that by now I would be much farther along...meaning that I would be ready for more advanced surf competitions in July.
That isn't happening.
It's mostly mental, but I've had a bad winter.
It started about 2+ months ago. I was in the water on a pretty big day. It wasn't the size that was the issue, it was the current and the power behind the wave.
I saw this outsider that was a pretty big bomb. I paddled my @$$ off to get over it. I did. There was one behind it. I didn't make it over that one. I tried to punch through the top of the wave but...instead...I was thrown violently backward and then into the washing machine.
My contacts came out. This doesn't happen all that often since I have the immediate reaction to close my eyes once I hit the water. This time though, I was spun around and the water hit me from all directions. My vision is really bad so after that I could only see the wall coming toward me. I hadn't lost my board at this point but I was getting worn out.
The next wave came and my board was gone from my grasp. I was on my short board with the comp leash so the lightweight nature of it all left me unsure of whether it was all still attached to my left ankle.
I managed to grab it but there was another wall coming. This time I went through the cycle but I managed to hold on to my board.
I'm pretty blind at this time and I was calling out to the shapes I could see in the distance. I recognize a friend that I surf with on a pretty regular basis. I call out. He tells me, "you're fine", and paddles away. I wasn't fine. However, I was making my way in and after a few more of holding on for dear life I managed to pull myself on top of my board and ride in a monster on my stomach...barely able to see and exhausted.
Yes, myself and many of my friends give the "friend" who left me hanging a hard time (to say the least). What is even more awesome is that there are a group of 10+ guys that I surf with every day that hang back for a minute to make sure I'm okay if it looks like I took one on the head.
I'm set back a little. No worries. I'll do my fun summer contests and then get 'em next year!