Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Stopping To Smell The Roses



I've been stopping to smell the roses quite a bit lately. Although we are having a very cold summer by SoCal standards there is still plenty to do...albeit while bundled up. I'm still wearing my thicker wetsuit that is generally reserved for the winter months but enjoying the surf nonetheless!

I've even finally pulled the trigger on a new surfboard. So far it's incredibly awesome to use. A breeze to paddle and catches just about everything that I go for. What more could I want? I've only had it out three times and am taking it out late today for the 4th session. Hopefully the love affair continues so I can report back to my favorite surf shop that the choice was a good one.

Speaking of surfing, the US Open of Surfing is underway down in Huntington Beach. The events last through this coming weekend. So far, I've heard great things about the contest and surrounding atmosphere.

Also about surfing...I've just got to say how disappointed I am with some of my fellow watermen/waterwomen. I've noticed a big surge in those who believe they have a specific claim to certain parts of the ocean. Sure, these same surfers would likely freak out if the beaches were made private. However, if someone they don't know tries to surf there then they feel that's not allowed. I'm so tired of this attitude. Is it really worth it?

On the other hand, there are a lot of surfers out there passing on the Aloha spirit. I've been fortunate to encounter a lot of very nice people out at my local breaks. I do my best to spread good will. Heck, I even gave a summer transplant from Boston change for a 20 the other day. I even said, "welcome to my home town". I'm hoping that sort of thing will spread. I was born here and I don't have a hard time sharing the water. I think Shaun Tomson said it best in his book Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Rules for Riding Through Life:

I Will Watch Out For Other Surfers

There Will Always Be Another Wave

All Surfers Are Connected By One Ocean

Life's to short for stress. Chill out and remember to stop and smell the roses every so often.

4 comments:

Mike said...

How long is the "surfing season" out there, Apryl? Can you do it year-round, or is there a preferred time when the waves are better?

Maybe that's a stupid question, but a skateboard is the closest I've ever gotten to surfing... and I wasn't particularly good at it. ;-)

Apryl DeLancey said...

Well, you can pretty much surf year 'round here. The difference is where the swell comes from. In the winter we get it from the northern Pacific and it's a bit bigger and choppier. In the summer we get stuff from the southern Pacific. Waves in the summer tend to be gentler (mushier) and easier to ride overall. In a really stormy winter (like we just had) you'll only see the most experienced, best surfers out in the water because the stormy & bigger conditions tend also mean more rip tides. It's quite a workout to paddle out into when it's like that. At one point over the winter I watched surfers with really big shoulder & arm muscles (which looks on the surface that they would have good upper body strength) have a really difficult time trying to paddle out.

Lindsay said...

I bet it's nice to surf in the winter when there are fewer people out there. That's too bad that some people seem to think they own the ocean.

I still need to learn how to surf some day ...

Apryl DeLancey said...

Yeah, winter can be sparse or packed but nothing like the summer. I feel like this summer is especially crowded even though the conditions have been a little bit sketchy.